pico
May 5th, 2011, 12:57 AM
I have been working on building an AR 15 setup designed for CQB and also counter sniping work/distance shots. Going with a 16" traditional carbine makes for a great close quarters battle/self defense firearm, but accuracy drops off and velocity fall off is a big factor because of the shorter barrel. 20" barrels are much better for accuracy, but the extra 4" of barrel length makes for a cumbersome rifle, and even they are often not the most accurate. 24" barrels are typically not designed to handle the extra pressure of the 5.56x45 round, being designed around the civilian .223 round... there is a slight difference. Anyway, I wanted to make something affordable that was both accurate at distances and easy to handle in tighter spaces. I have built an 18" rifle that brings much to the table, and would make a fantastic gun for when TSHTF.
I began by buying a stripped AR15 lower from Aero Precision. They make aviation parts, and also mass produce lowers and uppers for other companies. recently, they began putting their own name on their products, and for the price, they cannot be beat. If bought in bulk, you can get these for not much more that $50 each. I paid $75 for mine. I then picked up a lower parts kit from DPMS for around $60, but they can be found for around $50 with more effort... which came after the fact for me. It takes less than 15 minutes to assemble a lower, and the process would speed up a bunch once your 1st and 2nd lower has been finished.
I then added an aero precision upper, and outfitted it with an aero precision charging handle. The barrel is a heavy 18" stainless steel mini sass barrel from DPMS with a black teflon coating. I decided to go with a floating forearm, to eliminate any barrel inaccuracy from attaching it to the forearm portion of the assembly. I saved some money and went with a floating tube from UTG Leapers. I went with a rifle length tube, which also came with rail covers and a barrel nut. The nut needed to be fitted a bit, which was easy enough with a dremel. The barrel is heavy, and the nut is not designed for this size, so I modified it. Anyway, I went with a midwest gas block and a midlength gas tube. I also decided to add a magpul carbine butt stock and magpul vertical grip to the float tube. These magpul parts are extremely well made, and the grips are excellent and very comfortable. I have used them is AK 47's, my Saiga .308 carbine, and now my AR 15. They are excellent gear to have. Lastly, I added a YHM flash hider/muzzle brake. This is not only functional but can also be used as a working part of the weapon. I need to buy some iron sights, but plan on using this as a night weapon with an acog and a gen 3 NVD monocule.
It was a fairly inexpensive high end build. The gun looks like a DPMS mini sass, which would likely sell for $1,500 without optics. I built mine for well under $700, and the reason it was as high as it was can be attributed to the barrel running $200. The butt stock also cost $100, and I saved money using the float tube and gas block that I did. You can make a working AR if you have some proper equipment and a bit of time. Now, I need to take this to the range and give it the proper break in session, which will take all day if done correctly.
I began by buying a stripped AR15 lower from Aero Precision. They make aviation parts, and also mass produce lowers and uppers for other companies. recently, they began putting their own name on their products, and for the price, they cannot be beat. If bought in bulk, you can get these for not much more that $50 each. I paid $75 for mine. I then picked up a lower parts kit from DPMS for around $60, but they can be found for around $50 with more effort... which came after the fact for me. It takes less than 15 minutes to assemble a lower, and the process would speed up a bunch once your 1st and 2nd lower has been finished.
I then added an aero precision upper, and outfitted it with an aero precision charging handle. The barrel is a heavy 18" stainless steel mini sass barrel from DPMS with a black teflon coating. I decided to go with a floating forearm, to eliminate any barrel inaccuracy from attaching it to the forearm portion of the assembly. I saved some money and went with a floating tube from UTG Leapers. I went with a rifle length tube, which also came with rail covers and a barrel nut. The nut needed to be fitted a bit, which was easy enough with a dremel. The barrel is heavy, and the nut is not designed for this size, so I modified it. Anyway, I went with a midwest gas block and a midlength gas tube. I also decided to add a magpul carbine butt stock and magpul vertical grip to the float tube. These magpul parts are extremely well made, and the grips are excellent and very comfortable. I have used them is AK 47's, my Saiga .308 carbine, and now my AR 15. They are excellent gear to have. Lastly, I added a YHM flash hider/muzzle brake. This is not only functional but can also be used as a working part of the weapon. I need to buy some iron sights, but plan on using this as a night weapon with an acog and a gen 3 NVD monocule.
It was a fairly inexpensive high end build. The gun looks like a DPMS mini sass, which would likely sell for $1,500 without optics. I built mine for well under $700, and the reason it was as high as it was can be attributed to the barrel running $200. The butt stock also cost $100, and I saved money using the float tube and gas block that I did. You can make a working AR if you have some proper equipment and a bit of time. Now, I need to take this to the range and give it the proper break in session, which will take all day if done correctly.